Louis Vuitton, the Neverfull, the influencers, and me
i think they should send me the new Inside Out bag to properly 'critique' x
Yesterday, it was announced that LVMH fashion sales have fallen by 5%. As the brand at the forefront of the LVMH conglomerate, this underlying, simultaneous influencer-Neverfull saga feels ironically uncanny.
Personally, I have always wanted the Speedy more than the Neverfull. Though the latter has been described as the more ‘practical’ of the two, the heart wants it wants — and obviously, fashion isn’t always about function. A Speedy 30 in Damier Ebene, please.
So, where did, well, everyone go wrong?
I’ve always found the relationship between talent and luxury fashion houses interesting. Not that they are undeserving, as I do see their value, but it feels counterproductive in a world where lead PRs and marketing stakeholders are referring to content creators as ‘seat fillers’. As I scrolled my feed this week, I saw Tania Sarin Araradian, a popular luxury fashion and lifestyle influencer, review the bag; a new, reversible take on the classic silhouette with a black trim lining and, on the reverse, all-black leather — honestly, it’s not the biggest switch up from what they currently do or have provided.
Admittedly, and to my demise (‘dismay’ is the more applicable word, but fashion requires drama), I have developed the (frustrating) habit of being drawn to limited edition versions of bags. Please give me any of the leather accessories from Pharrell’s debut collection. So, I didn’t get all of the fuss. It doesn’t feel revolutionary, or enough of an upgrade, to do this mass push of a bag that, if made in the 90s or early 00s, is probably at its best with age, as a vintage (as are most of these designer bags nowadays).
The bags have been sent to ‘everyone’, from Jasmine Tookes, Aimee Song and Camila Coelho to Chriselle Lim, Katie Fang and Victoria Magrath. Dare I say that it’s no surprise that they’ve targeted more ethnic minority (East Asian, a win for the girls!) talent in this strategy, given that the conglomerate revealed that their Q3 decline in growth “mainly arose from lower growth seen in Japan, essentially due to the stronger yen,” according to the Financial Times1. Most importantly, this was reflected in their core fashion and leather accessories, where revenue is most concentrated within the industry.
Now, I’m no better than the next woman. Give me an LV right now, please. It may not get a glowing report, but I’ll be honest, and I think (I think) I can commend the fashion houses’ craftsmanship enough for it not to be an awful review. However, for a house praised and heralded on its class, prestige and elegance, this marketing strategy feels anything but.
This speaks more largely to a bigger problem with talent partnerships: misalignment. With the exponential growth of the creator economy globally, but especially in the US and the UK, it’s clear that what - or who - we are impacted by has changed significantly in the last decade. However, though much of it is based on consumer behaviour, it feels like there’s still an assumption that we’re dumb (lol). Yes, Gen Z are considered to be more reckless spenders, and those stats are mostly declining as we reckon with the increasing costs of life. Still, for those ready and willing to splurge, even making more conscious purchases, is the Neverfull the bag to turn them from that self-control and discipline? It’s currently the thick of Autumn in the UK; who on God’s great Earth needs a tote that doesn’t zip shut? I say this and am definitely eyeing up the Miu Miu Ivy shopping tote, but I digress. This is not to negate the impact of their influencers. I’d be lying if I said the thought of being one doesn’t cross my mind as regularly as I’d like, but when it comes to brand storytelling, I think we need some tightening on that front. Also, they’re not showing off if they’re paid to telemarket the product, essentially. Anyways, let’s pivot slightly.
Influencer Kate Bartlett made a video to a sound that said, ‘The Goyard tote is over, and the Louis Vuitton Neverfull is the new Goyard tote. That’s my assumption at least.’ With all due respect, that’s a poor assumption when their differences are minimal. One user on an unboxing video of this ‘new’ Neverfull said: “Louis Vuitton scrambling to send influencers this bag just proves Goyard is the GOAT. They would never. Classic quiet hard to get luxury wins.” But suddenly, all the factors that divide us fly swiftly out the window when desperate times call for desperate measures.
Essex’s own, and one of reality TV’s greatest, Olivia Attwood Dack, also went on a rant on TikTok and shared her thoughts. “Guys, can we talk about Louis Vuitton sending out Neverfulls to every influencer with over five followers who had previously slagged off the Neverfull and I feel have never even worn it? But then they've got a free one in the post, and they're like, ‘Oh my God, this bag is so timeless’.” Yes, Olivia, we can, and we’re talking about it right now. A user in the comments responded: “These influencers looked down on the Neverfull, now acting like it’s some new style or something that us pl*** can’t possibly have heard of.” There’s some truth to this, despite it being a sweeping generalisation of all influencers; people did neglect and turn their noses on the bag in a natural graduation from the silhouette, and of course, the rising price tag didn’t help.
The bag is timeless. I don’t think anyone can take that label from a household brand or accessory. But the changes they’ve made in this sudden push for the Neverfull is not new, and if they wanted it to come across as such, then that should’ve been reflected in their approach. Allow their audience (and beyond) to see the Neverfull in a new way. In the PR packaging, it came in paper bags emblazoned with travel motifs — so travel with the bag. Take us to new terrain, to new faces and talents in unexpected places, in outfits or styled with accessories that we’re not used to seeing. This whole PR strategy is dependent on a difference they’ve not really shown us.
As the FT reported, it’s full steam ahead as LVMH rallies to get back on track or ahead of the curve. But there is a chaotic essence to this marketing approach that is not so elegant and timeless as is commonly associated with the brand — though it’s not quite a mess (yet), you could say there is, perhaps, a scramble. And, with the festive season ahead, if they want to be seen as a key, strong stakeholder within the industry, something will have to give.
For my fashion lovers and enquirers, I’d love to know what you think! Let’s talk in the comments.
https://www.ft.com/content/e3d4a21c-308e-4dda-b3a6-119e0d2c397c